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#WHEN INSTALLING MY FOG LIGHTS WHICH IS RIGHT AND LEFT MANUAL#
#WHEN INSTALLING MY FOG LIGHTS WHICH IS RIGHT AND LEFT FREE#

The fog lights each have two wires, one for ground and one for the 12V power. The final terminal on the relay is numbered “87.” This terminal will carry power to the fog lights. Splice a red wire from the headlight wire to the relay terminal “30.” This line needs a 10-amp inline fuse, so be sure and wire one in. The power source for the relay is drawn from the low beam wire of the left headlight, as noted above. This white wire will need a 10 amp inline fuse and is connected to the fuse block. The last terminal on the switch connects to the power source. Connect a green wire from the “acc” terminal on the back of the switch to the number “86” terminal on the relay. I like to start wiring everything together at the switch and work my way toward the relay and the front of the car.

#WHEN INSTALLING MY FOG LIGHTS WHICH IS RIGHT AND LEFT FREE#

The relay ground terminal is numbered “85”.ĭrill the required hole in your dash for the switch leave the switch free for the moment. This must be done for the switch, the relay and each of the fog-lights. Crimp an “eyelet” connector on the ground wire and screw a sheet metal screw through the “eyelet” and into the body. Locate a suitable body connection point and drill a 7/64-inch hole in the body. Start with the ground connections for each component. Cut and leave about 6 inches of extra wire at every terminal point.

Do not add the crimped ends to any of the wires until all the wires are in place. Keep wires close to an existing wire loom and be careful of loops and sagging wires, which may snag on a moving component of the car. Now you are ready to run your wires according to the wiring diagram. If you purchased your relay from a reputable source, it will have numbered terminals, which aid greatly in connecting everything correctly.Ī three way connection is made to the power source for both lights. The low current through the switch triggers the relay to make a higher current connection to the heavy load of the fog lights. Basically, the relay protects the switch from getting hot and creating unwanted resistance. Relays are an important component in wiring fog or driving lights with a 30-60A draw. You’ll find examples of switches, lights, fuses-it’s helpful to understand and keep a universal language of the components in your drawings.

#WHEN INSTALLING MY FOG LIGHTS WHICH IS RIGHT AND LEFT MANUAL#

If you need assistance drawing a diagram, refer to your car’s factory workshop manual (reprints are available from Moss). Pictured is my wiring diagram for installing two fog lights with fuses, a switch, and a relay. This wiring diagram will stay with the car so make it neat and easily readable. Draw a diagram on plain white paper with wire gauge noted and colors identified.

Sheet metal screws (for connecting ground wires to body)īefore cutting any wire, a good diagram is in order.

Switch (with three male spade connectors on back).

Relay (with four male spade connectors on back).

The reason is simple, the color identifies the purpose of each wire and if I ever have a problem I can track it down using my wiring diagram. I will need several colors of 14-gauge wire: black, green, white, and red. In my case, 80% of 11.8A is 9.44A so a 10-amp inline fuse is perfect. This will ensure that you blow the fuse before you burn the wire. The rule of thumb is this: the fuse ought to be rated near 80% of the amperage of the wire. To protect my 14-gauge wiring I will be installing 10-amp inline fuses. Amps are a measure of current flow volts are a measure of the force behind the flow of current. I will be using 14-gauge wire, which handles up to 11.8A. Since I will be wiring the lights to the relay with one lead, 70W/12V= 5.8A. The formula for amperage is watts divided by volts equals amps, or W/V=A. My lamps are vintage and each unit reads 35 watts. The first order of business is to determine the amperage of your driving/fog lights.

Let’s begin with your lights already mounted to the car, the wires dangling beneath or behind and waiting to receive power from Mr. I picked up two vintage fog lights at a yard sale and these will be installed on my Volvo.

My 1966 Volvo 122S may not be British, but it does use many components common to the cars of England. After a few smoke-filled incidents I am much more careful. I remember the days when I rummaged about in my “box of wires” and grabbed any gauge wire of sufficient or insufficient length, splicing together a “rat’s nest” of wire connections and crimped ends to connect any number of desired accessories. The fog lights are mounted and ready for power.